The Hells Canyon Wilderness is an area located on the Idaho/Oregon border. Created in 1975, the Wilderness is managed by both the Bureau of Land Management and the Forest Service. It has some of the most spectacular views of the Snake River as it winds its way through Hells Canyon, one of the deepest gorges on the planet.
The gateway is Baker City which is also home of the Hells Canyon Motorcycle Rally (HCMR). In its 10th year our posse decided to take in the rally, but more importantly try out motorcycle camping. Not because the economy is in the tank and we’re saving $$, but more from an increasing desire to try sleeping under the stars and having fond memories from younger years of multi-night backpacking trips. A lot has been written on motorcycle camping from wiser men and outdoor enthusiasts who can provide all the secrets of camping so I won’t even try. For me it all boils down to a good tent, air mat and sleeping bag. More coverage on this in Day 2 wrap up.
It was a cool morning departure and after we concluded an obligatory breakfast at Elmer’s (Delta Park) we set out leaving the city encampment and natives of Portland for the Lewis and Clark highway. We joined Washington State Hwy14 (SR14), which has sweeping views across the Columbia River. The highway runs approximately 180 miles from the I-5 junction in Vancouver, to a junction with Interstate 82 and U.S. Route 395 in the east and just across the state line from Umatilla, Or. After Camus, Wa. SR 14 is a two-lane highway which runs along steep bluffs nearly a thousand feet high through the Columbia Gorge. The frequent high winds were absent this day providing us a nice ride.
We pulled over at Cape Horn then again at Beacon Rock to take in the scenic view. In the town of Lyle the dreary weather and forest scenery gave way to sunshine and arid grasslands in a fairly rapid transition. We stopped at the Maryhill, Wa., Stonehenge, a monument to the World War I dead of Klickitat County. There were 4 dams on the Columbia River along our journey east. Bonneville Dam which is closest to Portland. The Dalles Dam, the John Day Dam and furthest up the river which we saw signs, but not the dam was McNary Dam near the Tri-Cities of Richland, Pasco, and Kennewick.
We stopped at Plymouth Tavern mid-day in Plymouth, Wa., unfortunately it was jammin’ with a 40 minute wait for burgers so, we rode on and grabbed some “Great American Food” at A&W near the Umatilla Army Chemical Depot. The Depot began storing chemical weapons between 1962 and 1969, ending up with about 12% of the Nation’s chemical weapons. You can see the earth-covered bunkers… “gofer mounds” for miles. From 1990 to 1994 the facility reorganized in prep for closure and shipped all conventional ammunition and supplies to other installations leaving only the chemical weapons. Disposal facilities were built for destroying the VX, Mustard and Sarin laced weapons via incineration technology. Destruction of the chemicals has been in progress and is expected to be completed this year.
We skirted thunder showers all afternoon, but about the time we arrived in Pendleton, Or., the blue-black rain clouds intermixed with lightning meant the slight chance of getting wet was now turning into a done deal. One of the cool things about riding a motorcycle is that you can smell everything around you and as storms approach you get a strong whiff when things are about to change as the sky starts to spit and then open’s up like a fire hose reminding you that going to “hell” is part of the journey. The rain was spotty with the occasional “gully washer” through the Wallowa-Whitman Mountains and stopped completely by the time we passed through North Powder.
We arrived at the Baker City high school and started unloading the tent-city base camp. Fortunately we were able to get everything set up before another thunder shower bombarded and drenched the football field. It ended within a half-hour, but managed to test the waterproof-ness of all the tents and made for some interesting mud-dawg motorcycle entry/exits! Santiago’s canopy saved the day!! We headed to the El Erradero Mexican restaurant where the food was authentic, margarita’s were tasty and the service was fabulous. We walked down to Main Street and took in some of the vendor booths then made our way over to the Geiser Grand Hotel for some additional entertainment. We ended the downtown revelry in a karaoke place which I don’t recall the name, but it was across from the Geiser Grand and the building was called Main Event. A quirky place with the typical oddity of locals mixed with visitors. Eventually we stretch our legs and meandered back to the base camp to enjoy our nylon equipment and cold weather camping techniques…
Hells Canyon Rally Wrap Up – Day 2 HERE.
Northwest Harley Blog 